• 2Plywood Cabinet Carcass Side Pieces , 20" x 30.5" → 508 mm x 775 mm
• 1Plywood Cabinet Carcass Bottom , 18.5" x 20" → 470 mm x 508 mm
• 2Plywood Cabinet Carcass Top , 18.5" x 2.5" → 470 mm x 64 mm
• 2Base Pieces Frame , 1"x4"x20" → 25 mm x 102 mm x 508 mm
• 2Base Pieces Frame , 1"x4"x13" → 25 mm x 102 mm x 330 mm
• 2Face Frame Top and Bottom Pieces , 1.5"X 20" → 38 mm x 508 mm
• 2Face Frame Side Pieces , 1.5" x 28 1/4" → 38 mm x 718 mm
• 1Face Frame Middle Piece , 1.5" x 17" → 38 mm x 432 mm
• 2Trim Pieces on Bottom (45 Degree Cuts on one Side) , 21 1/2" → 546 mm
• 1Trim Piece on Bottom (45 Degree Cuts on Both Sides) , 21 1/2" → 546 mm
• 1Oak Wood Vanity Top , 21 1/2" x 21 1/2" → 546 mm x 546 mm
• 1Faux Draw Front , 17" x 6" → 432 mm x 152 mm
• 2Door Stile (Side Pieces) , 2 1/2" x 20 3/4" → 64 mm x 527 mm
• 2Door Rails (Top and Bottom Pieces) , 2 1/2" x 12" → 64 mm x 305 mm
• 1Plywood Cabinet Shelf (Optional) , 18.5"x20" → 470 mm x 508 mm
• 1Wood Back Splash Piece (Optional) , 2.5" x 21 1/2" → 64 mm x 546 mm

Directions

1- Cutting Cabinet Carcass Pieces

• The cabinet carcass is the bare box that makes up a cabinet before trim is added.

  -Cut 2 pieces of plywood 30.5" x 20" (Side Pieces) → 775 mm x 508 mm
  -Cut 1 piece of plywood 18.5" x 20" (Bottom Piece) → 470 mm x 508 mm
  -Cut 2 pieces of plywood 18.5" x 2.5" (Top Pieces) → 470 mm x 64 mm

  
  

  2- Building Cabinet Carcass

  -Drill 5 pocket holes on each side of the bottom piece (20" sides)
  -Use pocket holes with pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach the side pieces
  -Drill 2 pocket holes on each end of the top pieces
  -Use those pocket holes with pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach the pieces to the sides

  
  
  

  3 - Building Base

  -Use 1x4 and cut 2 pieces at 20"
  -Use 1x4 and cut 2 pieces at 13"
  -Drill 2 pockets holes on each end of the 13" pieces
  -Use pocket holes with pocket hole screws and glue to put frame together
  -Use 2 1/2" screws to attach 4 decorative legs to base
  -Use 1 1/4" screws to attach base to cabinet carcass

  Making sure legs show

  Put the front legs slightly off base so they don't get covered up after adding trim pieces

  

  4 - Cutting Down Face Framing Pieces

  -Use table saw to rip 1x4 into 1 1/2" thick pieces for face framing pieces
  -Take the new 1 1/2" thick pieces and use miter saw to cut down face framing pieces
  -2 pieces at 20"
  -2 pieces at 28 1/4"
  -1 piece at 17"

  
  
  

  5 - Adding Face Framing Pieces

  These pieces cover up the plywood edge and give the cabinet a finished look.

  -Use a nail gun to attached face framing pieces to outer edge of cabinet carcass.

  
  
  

  6 - Adding Middle Trim Piece

  This piece breaks up the cabinet space for a faux drawer and cabinet door

  - Drill one pocket hole on each end of the 17" long piece
  -Measure 7 1/2" down from top and use pocket holes with pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach piece to side face framing pieces

  
  
  

  7 - Adding Decorative Trim

  This decorative trim adds a beautiful detail and also covers up the gap on the side between the cabinet carcass and base. I used a 1" piece of trim for this decorative detail.

  -Use miter saw to cut 1 piece of trim at 21 1/2" (45 degree angle cut on both sides)
  -Use miter saw to cut 2 pieces of trim at 21 1/2" (45 degree cut on one side, straight cut on other)

  
  
  

  8 - Cutting Vanity Top

  I used a Red Oak "Edge Glued Board" to make this step faster instead of laminating boards together myself.

  -Cut the board down to 21 1/2" x 22 1/4"
  -Use a drill to make a hole in the top
  -Then used that drilled hole with a jig saw and cut out hole for drip sink
  -Attach top using 1 1/4" screws from the inside of cabinet carcass

  
  
  

  9 - Attaching Faux Drawer Front

  I used a 1x8 piece that I cut down to 6" wide and 17" long for the drawer front

  -Use wood glue and brad nails to attach a scrap piece of ply wood to the side trim pieces on the inside of the cabinet
  -Then use that same scrap plywood to attach the faux drawer front using brad nails and wood glue

  
  
  

  10 - Building Door

  -Get a 1"x3" or rip down a board to 2.5" thick
  -Cut 2 pieces at 20 3/4"
  -Cut 2 pieces at 12"

  -drill two pocket holes on each end of the 12 inch pieces
  -use pocket holes with pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach all 4 pieces together

  
  
  

  11 - Staining and Top Coat

  I used 3 stains to achieve a slightly distressed look and light color. I used Special Walnut, Early American and Hazel Wood (Varathane)

  -Stain vanity and door with the stain of your choice
  - Apply 7 coats of top coat to make it fully waterproof

  
  
  

  12 - Attaching the Door

  -Use Fivalo conceal hinge jig to drill out cups for conceal hinges.
  -Use the Blum mount conceal hinges for framed cabinet with an inset door.

  
  
  

  13 - Cabinet Shelf (Optional)

  -Cut a piece of plywood 20" x 18.5"
  - Use jig saw to cut out notch to work around "P" trap
  - Use trim tape add to front of shelf
  - Use small "L" shaped brackets to hold shelf up on the side

  Tip:

  -The "L" shaped brackets make it so you can take shelf out if you need to work on plumbing

  

  14 - Finish Door

  -Soak a piece of cane webbing for 20 to 30 minutes
  - Use staples/staple gun to attach cane to the door on the inside
  -Pop door back on cabinet
  -Finish the vanity by adding a handle to the door and faux drawer

  Tip:

  - Add handle to faux drawer before getting sink installed and siliconed down

  

  15 - Final Step (Optional)

  This backsplash piece creates a nice seal between the wall and the vanity.

  Add a 2.5" x 21 1/2" wood piece behind the sink against the wall. Use silicone to attach the piece to the countertop and wall.
  and enjoy all your hard work!